On the Highest Perch



CHESTNUTS ROASTING ON AN OPEN FIRE



Includes Recipes Below

Nostalgic memories linger when chestnuts appear each fall. Some of our parents and grandparents still recall past holiday seasons with street vendors selling roasted chestnuts on the sidewalks of New York and Philadelphia as well as in many smaller cities. For just a few pennies people could buy bags of hot chestnuts they ate as a warming snack while they shopped or strolled along the streets.

Well before the Pilgrims arrived on the Eastern shores, the American chestnut tree stood as a mighty monument, many over100 feet tall, their trunks measuring five feet or more in diameter. Members of the Fagaceae family, chestnut trees formed the forests that grew from Maine in New England all the way south to Florida and spreading westward to Michigan. There's an old saying that the chestnut forests were so thick a squirrel could jump from chestnut tree to chestnut tree from Georgia to New York without ever touching the ground.

Even Henry Wadsworth Longfellow was impressed by the magnificence of the chestnut tree when he wrote his poem, The Village Blacksmith in 1842, which begins "Under the spreading chestnut, the village smithy stands."

Chestnut trees are often confused with the horse chestnut, the beech, and chestnut oak, none of which bear fruit. American chestnuts grow three nuts to a burr, an impressive looking fruit about the size of a baseball with a fuzzy lining surrounding the nuts.

American chestnut trees provided sustenance to humans and animals in numerous ways. Chestnuts were a dietary staple of the American Indians who taught the Pilgrims to cook them in stews or grind them into flour for bread.

Chestnuts meant survival to many Appalachian communities. There, small animals like squirrels and birds along with bears and deer feasted on the chestnuts, some storing them for the winter. In early summer the ridge tops along the Appalachians were covered in white. Those who were familiar with the chestnut trees recognized that the copious white blooms meant a great chestnut harvest ahead. During the autumn harvest season residents of the area stored sacks full of chestnuts in their cellars as provisions for the winter.

Chestnut Because chestnut trees grew straight, tall, and branchless for nearly 50 feet, loggers found them highly saleable. Like the sturdy redwoods they were also resistant to rot and could be used for nearly everything from telegraph poles, railroad ties, and shingles to musical instruments, fine furniture, and paneling. After the harvest the surplus ripe chestnuts were packed into railroad cars and shipped eastward to the large cities.

Several varieties of European chestnut trees were imported to this country in 1799. Thomas Jefferson brought some cuttings of European variety to Monticello and grafted them onto American trees. Eleuthere Irenee DuPont de Nemours brought several varieties from France which he hybridized. Later he imported more trees and did more hybridization. He is most famous for establishing a gunpowder factory in Wilmington, Delaware. His heirs built the company into the present DuPont chemical empire. By1889 there were many hybridized American-European chestnut varieties growing here.

In the late1880s others were importing and grafting chestnut trees from Japan including Luther Burbank who imported 10,000 nuts for hybridizing. His trees reached many nurseries that sold the hybridized Japanese chestnut trees through catalogs. Trees were popping up all over the East, especially in New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and New York.

Today two of the Japanese chestnut trees imported in1876 are still growing in Connecticut, one at the Bee and Thistle Inn in Old Lyme and one behind the Congregational Church in Cheshire. Two Chinese varieties imported in 1900 still survive, one in the Durand-Eastman Park in Rochester, New York, and the other at the Bartlett Arboretum in Stamford, Connecticut.

Problems

Hardy though the mighty chestnut was, it fell prey to a deadly fungus from the Asian trees. In 1904 the first infected trees were found in New York City along the avenues of the Bronx Zoo. Spreading quickly, the fungus found no resistance along its path as it destroyed all the chestnut trees of the eastern forests. By 1950, chestnut root sprouts that also became infected with the fungus were all that remained. A plant researcher found that the blight also affected the chestnut trees in Japan and China, but since they seemed resistant to the disease, it didn't destroy them.

In the early 1930s researchers, in their effort to restore the chestnut forests, were offering hybrid species to New England homeowners. So far many of these trees have survived the harsh winters without suffering blight.

The American Chestnut Foundation , founded in 1983, hopes to restore the American chestnut to its original stature in the Eastern forests. After decades of attempting to create a blight-resistant chestnut tree, researchers are just now developing techniques that cross our American chestnut with several Asian species in the hope that new developments in genetics can bring them success.

Beyond our North American border, the chestnut is considered the most revered tree-food crop in the world, feeding both the poor as well as the rich throughout history. From prehistoric times to the present, people have always looked forward to the chestnut harvest, a delightful task that involved merely gathering them up, since the ripe ones simply fall to the ground.

Chestnuts were growing in China and Japan in ancient times long before the Roman armies brought them into Europe. Many chestnut varieties grew wild throughout Asia, parts of the Middle East, and Europe. By 37 BCE the Romans were actively cultivating robust chestnut trees for the flour they combined with wheat for bread. Greece and Turkey were also fortunate to enjoy the abundance of the harvest from their lusty chestnut forests. The Romans imported the best chestnuts from Kastanum, now the Asian portion of Turkey. The chestnut's genus name of Castanea is derived from Kastanum.

It is interesting to note that chestnuts are even mentioned in the Bible, with a tale that tells of Jacob putting peeled chestnut twigs into his water troughs to promote healthy offspring of his livestock.

Since the middle of the twentieth century, North America has imported most of its chestnuts from Italy where the trees grow abundantly, with the highest quality from Sicily. The clearest description of the chestnut's hardiness tells of an ancient tree growing at the base of Mt. Etna in Sicily. A mere 2,000 years old, it was destroyed when the volcano erupted.

Throughout history chestnuts have evoked symbolic meanings and diverse practices in different cultures. In Japan, chestnuts symbolize both success and hard times. Always served as part of the New Year menu, chestnuts symbolize mastery and strength.

In Modena, Italy, chestnuts are soaked in wine before roasting and serving as a special preparation on St. Martin's Day.

In France, marron glace, a candied chestnut with a typically French cooking style that involves 16 different processes, is always served at Christmas and New Years time. The French claim they originated this treat in the time of Louis XIV, but apparently a candied chestnut confection was served 150 years earlier in Piedmont, a northwestern area of Italy close to the border of Switzerland and France.

To the early Christians chestnuts symbolized chastity.

Nutrition

Most people don't think of nuts as a low-fat food, but chestnuts are the exception. Low in fat--3 cooked chestnuts, or approximately 1 ounce, contain a mere .02 grams of fat compared to a handful of cashews with about 12 to15 grams of fat. You've probably guessed they're also low in calories with those same three cooked chestnuts containing between 57 and 68 calories depending on the variety.

Protein is not a highpoint for chestnuts that contain only minimal amounts. However, unlike their other nut counterparts, they are very starchy, making them high in carbohydrates. It's their carbohydrates that make chestnuts, once dried and ground, into an excellent, nutritious flour.

Of all the nuts, chestnuts are the only ones that contain vitamin C. One ounce of boiled or steamed chestnuts delivers 7 mg. of vitamin C, while the dried variety has more than double that amount with 16.6 mg. for one ounce.

All three varieties, the Chinese, Japanese, and European, contain B vitamins including folacin. All have small amounts of calcium, iron, magnesium, and zinc but are a rich source of potassium.

The chestnuts now grown in North America are mostly of the Chinese variety, but they are not readily available in markets. You'll most likely encounter those imported from Europe. The majority are from Southern Italy, but some are from Portugal, and France. The French variety, called marrons, are highly favored. These are found in gourmet shops, and as you might expect, are always a bit pricey. Those from Italy are most plentiful and are sold by the pound in supermarkets across the country. They're large, meaty, and richly flavored.

During the fall season many Asian markets import chestnuts from Korea. These are impressive in size and rich in flavor.

FRESH CHESTNUTS: These begin appearing in the produce section of most supermarkets in October, though they receive little attention until Thanksgiving. Traditionally, they are cooked and added to stuffings. Fresh chestnuts are available through March though supermarkets will usually not carry them after Christmas. Asian markets, however, will have them throughout the winter.

To boil, make a crisscross cut on the flat or domed side of each chestnut with a firm, sharp paring knife. Toss them into a saucepan, cover with water by 2", and cover the pan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Turn heat down slightly, and boil gently for 20 minutes. Cool slightly and peel with a sharp paring knife, taking care to remove the brown inner skin as well. We've found it's easier to remove the shells when the chestnuts are quite warm and recommend working with only a few chestnuts at a time while the rest stay warm in the cooking water.

To roast, make a crisscross cut on the flat or domed side of the chestnut with a sharp, firm paring knife. Place the nuts on a baking sheet and roast at 400 (Gas Mark 6) for about 20 minutes. You can test for tenderness by piercing through the cut side with a fork. Peel with a firm, sharp paring knife, taking care to remove the dark brown inside skin.

To eat raw, purchase the French variety (marrons) at a specialty shop and simply peel them by making a crisscross cut either on the flat side or the domed and pulling off the shell.

Because of their starchiness, cooked chestnuts can be served as a vegetable and mashed like potatoes. Shortly after they're harvested much of their starch turns to sugar, giving them a satisfying sweetness and adding a pleasant balance to a savory meal.

Chestnuts can be enjoyed whole as a tasty snack. They can also be mashed, pickled, chopped, minced, or sliced. Consider adding them to sauces or soups as a thickener and flavor enhancer.

DRIED CHESTNUTS: These are available on a year round basis in almost any Asian market. They may also be found at Italian markets. In their dried form chestnuts may be stored indefinitely.

To cook, put chestnuts in a saucepan and cover with 2" of water. Cover pan and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn heat down slightly and boil gently for about 45 minutes. To speed cooking time, soak the dried chestnuts in water to cover overnight. Cooking times vary depending on the variety. Fork test for tenderness. We've learned that the dried chestnuts tend to retain their firmness even after lengthy cooking. Their firm texture makes them ideal for adding to cooked vegetables, casseroles, grain dishes, fruit and vegetable salads, rice puddings, and soups. Consider them also as a unique garnish for a sweet or savory dish.

For measuring dried chestnuts, use half the quantity required in a recipe that calls for fresh chestnuts.

CANNED CHESTNUTS: In the fall, canned and jarred whole, cooked chestnuts can be found in gourmet shops, packed in water or syrup for making desserts. Pureed cooked chestnuts, either sweetened or unsweetened, are also available in cans or jars during the holiday season. Shop for these at gourmet stores.

CHESTNUT FLOUR: It may be difficult to find chestnut flour in North America. Consider looking in health food stores and in Italian markets. Since chestnut flour does not contain gluten, it is combined with wheat flour for baking breads. In Southern Italy it is cooked much like a polenta and served with cheese. Another favorite dish of Italian origin begins with chestnut porridge cooked with pine nuts, butter, and raisins and flavored with anise. It is then baked like a pudding and served as a dessert.

STORAGE: It's best to keep whole, unpeeled fresh chestnuts refrigerated until you're ready to cook them. In this form they may be stored for up to one year, keeping in mind it's always best to eat foods when they're at their freshest.

We offer this unique way to enjoy chestnuts during the holiday season. The recipe will be much easier to assemble if you prepare the chestnuts the day before.


CHESTNUT, WILD RICE, AND PECAN STUFFED SQUASHES


Chestnut Stuffed Squashes 1/2 pound (225g) fresh chestnuts or 1 1/4 cups (296 ml) cooked peeled chestnut pieces Water

1 cup (240 ml) wild rice
3 cups (720 ml) water
1 teaspoon salt

4 or 5 squashes (sugar pumpkins, acorn, small butternut, delicata, sweet dumpling)
Organic canola oil

1 small onion, finely chopped
3 stalks celery, finely chopped
5 cloves garlic, crushed
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup (60 ml) water

4 slices 100% whole wheat bread

1/2 pound (225g) mushrooms, chopped
2/3 cup (160 ml) pecans toasted and broken into pieces
3/4 teaspoon salt or to taste
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon poultry seasoning
Freshly ground black pepper

Chopped parsley for garnish

  1. If using fresh chestnuts, make a crisscross cut in each chestnut. Boil the chestnuts in water to cover for 25 minutes. Peel them with a sharp paring knife while still warm, removing the inner brown skin as well. Put the chestnut pieces into a large bowl and set aside.
  2. Combine the wild rice, water, and salt in a 2-quart (2 liter) saucepan, cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat down to medium-low, and cook for 45 to 55 minutes, or until the rice is tender.
  3. Cut the squashes in half with a firm chef's knife, scoop out the seeds, and brush the cavities with canola oil. Arrange the squashes on a baking sheet, cut side down, and bake at 400 degrees (Gas Mark 6) for 30 minutes.
  4. To prepare stuffing, combine the onion, celery, garlic, olive oil, and water in a large skillet, and cook and stir until the vegetables are soft and transparent, about 5 to 6 minutes. Add them to the bowl with the chestnuts.
  5. Toast the whole wheat bread in the toaster until the bread is dry. Cut into small cubes and add to them to the bowl with the chestnuts.
  6. Add the remaining ingredients to the bowl and mix well. Adjust seasonings if needed.
  7. Remove the squashes from the oven and generously fill the cavities with the stuffing. Cover the sqashes with aluminum foil, shiny side down, and bake them for 30 minutes more or until the squashes are tender. Sprinkle the tops with chopped parsley and serve. Serves 8 to 10.
  8. Extra stuffing can be put into a covered casserole dish and baked at 350 degrees (Gas Mark 4) for 30 minutes.

The holidays are for toasting family unity and bonding with friends. And a little sweet indulgence goes a long way to enhancing the festive mood. Plan to have some cooked and peeled chestnuts on hand to whip up this tasty nog when unexpected visitors drop in or prepare it a day ahead for a special occasion.


SPICY CHESTNUT AND CRANBERRY NOG

Yield: about 3 3/4 cups (900 ml)

  1. Pour 1 cup (240 ml) of the soymilk into the blender and add the chestnuts and fresh cranberries. Blend on high speed until the chestnuts and cranberries are completely broken down and you have a thick, creamy consistency.

  2. With the machine running, add the remaining soymilk, cranberry juice cocktail, maple syrup, vanilla extract, and spices and blend for 30 seconds, or until all the ingredients are blended and foamy.

  3. Serve immediately, or chill thoroughly. Stored in the refrigerator in a covered container, Spicy Chestnut and Cranberry Nog will keep for up to 5 days.

Heavenly rich and captivatingly delicious, this traditional old world dessert takes on refreshing nuance with a hint of maple flavor, an abundant splash of cinnamon, and a blast of chunky chestnuts nibbles. Adding a hint of texture are toasted sliced almonds. Put it all together and you're about to taste an irresistible fall and winter dessert that's a chestnut sensation! For convenience, the strudel can easily be made a couple of days ahead and refrigerated. Serve it room temperature or warm it gently, uncovered, at 325 degrees for about 10 to 15 minutes to crisp the filo dough.

Chestnut Apple Strudel

MAPLE CHESTNUT APPLE STRUDEL


Yield: about 21 to 24 slices

  1. Have ready a lightly oiled jellyroll pan. Place the toasted almonds in a small bowl and set it aside. Combine the evaporated cane juice and cinnamon in another small bowl and set it aside.
  2. To make the filling, combine the chestnuts, raisins, evaporated cane juice, flour, and cinnamon in a large bowl, stir well, and set it aside. Combine the maple syrup, vanilla and maple extracts in a small bowl, and set it aside.
  3. Measure the lemon juice into a separate large bowl and stir in the apples, coating them well to prevent them from turning brown. Set it aside.
  4. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees (Gas Mark 4) and clear off the kitchen counter. You'll need lots of working room to prepare the filo dough. Place a dishtowel vertically on one end of the counter. Open the package of filo and unroll the dough. Place it on the towel, and cover the dough with another dishtowel to prevent it from drying out. Each time you remove a filo sheet, be sure to re-cover the dough. For convenience, place the canola oil in a small bowl.
  5. Remove one sheet of filo and lay it on the counter horizontally in front of you. Using a pastry brush, coat the dough lightly with the canola oil. Remove a second sheet of filo, lay it over the first sheet, and brush with oil. Repeat the process until you have 5 sheets altogether.
  6. Combine the sliced apples with the toasted almonds, chestnut mixture, and the maple syrup mixture and stir well to distribute the ingredients evenly.
  7. Place one-third of the filling horizontally along the center of the filo dough, leaving 1 1/2 inches (3.5 cm) on either end. Lift up one horizontal edge and fold it over the filling. Tuck in both of the sides. Then, fold the remaining horizontal edge over and brush lightly with oil.
  8. Place the roll on the prepared baking sheet, seam side down, and brush lightly with oil. Repeat the process with two more rolls, placing all three rolls on the baking sheet. Sprinkle the reserved evaporated cane juice and cinnamon mixture over the tops.
  9. Use a serrated knife to cut 1 1/2-inch (3.5 cm) slices half-way through. Bake for 45 minutes. Remove and cool about 10 minutes, then cut through the slices. Use a spatula to transfer them to a large, attractive serving platter. Serve warm, room temperature, or chilled. Refrigerated, leftover Maple Chestnut Apple Strudel will keep for up to 5 days.

Ever taste a dish that had such a pleasing blend of flavors you just wanted to keep on eating and eating? This irresistible risotto is worth waiting a whole year for fresh chestnuts to appear in the markets. The ultra seasonal creation is blessed with the creamy sweetness of chestnuts and paired with the earthy flavors of a trio of herbs that make the shiitake and cremini mushrooms melt in the mouth.


Chestnut and Wild Mushroom Risotto
CHESTNUT AND WILD MUSHROOM RISOTTO

Yield: 6 servings

  1. Combine the tomatoes and minced garlic in a large saucepan or skillet. Cook and stir over high heat for about 3 to 4 minutes until the tomatoes have begun to break down. Set them aside to add at the end.
  2. Combine the onions, carrots, celery, garlic, water, and olive oil in a large, deep skillet or 8 to 10-quart stockpot. Cook and stir over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the vegetables begin to soften.
  3. Add the mushrooms, thyme, sage, and rosemary and cook about 2 minutes more, adding as much as a cup (240 ml) of water if needed.
  4. Turn the heat down to medium-high and add the brown rice, salt, and 1 cup (240 ml) of the water. Keep the pan simmering and add the water, 1/2 cup (120 l) at a time, as the liquid is absorbed. The process of cooking down and adding water may take 30 to 40 minutes. Taste the rice for tenderness after 30 minutes. You may not need to use all of the water.
  5. When the rice is tender, add the cooked tomatoes and the chestnuts and cook 3 to 5 minutes longer to create a pleasing flavor union. Season to taste with salt and pepper. To finish, spoon the risotto into shallow bowls and sprinkle with a pinch or two of herbs.

Note: For a delicious Wild Rice, Chestnut and Wild Mushroom Risotto, substitute 1 cup (240 ml) of wild rice for the brown rice, but plan on at least 20 minutes longer cooking to soften the wild rice.

A light, savory curry sauce is the ideal compliment to balance the natural sweetness of chestnuts in this delectable pasta dish. Another facet of this grand marriage is the mushroom combination that allows the chestnuts to take center stage. The recipe is quick to prepare and does not require exotic ingredients. If you're one who enjoys the heat of a spicy dish, adjust the seasoning to the full teaspoon or more of curry powder.


Chestnut Mushroom Pasta
CURRIED CHESTNUT AND MUSHROOM PASTA

Yield: 4 servings

  1. Cook the pasta in boiling, salted water according to the manufacturer's instructions.
  2. Heat the olive oil in a large, deep skillet for one minute. Add the bell pepper, onions, garlic, salt, curry powder, and turmeric and cook about 2 minutes.
  3. Add the mushrooms and cook another 2 minutes.
  4. Add the 2 cups of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Combine the cornstarch and the 2 tablespoons water in a small bowl or cup and stir to form a runny paste. Add to the boiling water and stir for 1 minute until thickened.
  5. Stir in the lemon juice and chestnuts and mix well. Adjust the seasoning, if needed, and serve over cooked and drained pasta.

For a delightfully rich breakfast indulgence, enjoy this unique "milk" poured over your old-fashioned oatmeal cooked with a stick of cinnamon. Prepare the Creamy Chestnut Milk a day ahead and warm it in minutes while cooking the oatmeal. Pour it into a small pitcher to serve at the table. Then, top your cereal with raisins and chopped seasonal fruit, and bathe it in pool of chestnut milk.


CREAMY CHESTNUT MILK

Yield: about 1 1/2 cups (360 ml)

  1. Pour 1/3 cup (80 ml) of the soymilk into the blender and add the chestnuts. Blend on high speed until the chestnuts are completely broken down and you have a thick, creamy consistency.
  2. With the machine running, add the remaining soymilk and the maple syrup until all the ingredients are well blended. Serve gently warmed or chilled. Stored in the refrigerator in a covered container, Creamy Chestnut Milk will keep for up to 5 days.

Almost any hearty dish can be enhanced with a naturally sweet and tangy relish that adds zest to the meal. Serve this unique accompaniment at the table and spoon it into your dish as you might a chutney. Enjoy it with rice dishes, polenta, and even over baked potatoes in place of sour cream. Refrigerated, it keeps well for several days.

CHESTNUT AND RED BELL PEPPER RELISH


Yield: 1 1/4 cups (300 ml)

  1. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil, shiny side down. Place a medium bowl in the sink, and fill it with cold water.
  2. Put the peppers on the foil and place them under the broiler, 3 inches (7.5 cm) from the heat source. Broil, turning with tongs every few minutes, until the peppers are blackened all over. Plunge the peppers into the prepared bowl with water and peel off the skins completely. Discard the core and seeds and transfer the peppers to the food processor.
  3. Add the chestnuts, lemon juice, garlic, salt, and cayenne and pulse-chop a few times. Process briefly until all the ingredients are well incorporated but not totally pureed, allowing the definitive texture of the chestnuts to emerge. Transfer to an attractive bowl and serve immediately or well chilled.

For other chestnut recipes click on Recipe Index.



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