All the world is nuts about
What's in The Nut Gourmet
Editors' Note: On this page in our July, 2004, issue we published a review of Vegan Tokyo Teriyaki Restaurant in Los Ångeles. We are sorry to report that this excellent restaurant has closed its doors. They will be missed.
R: We shared smiles and a nod as we approached the door of the restaurant. The bumper sticker prominently displayed read, "Love animals. Don't eat them." We felt an instant connection with the compassionate owners who do not believe in killing animals for food.
Z: Cheery and bright, Vegan Tokyo Teriyaki is located in a strip mall on the northeast corner of South Figueroa and Adams, not too far from the campus of USC. At this small, informal café they welcome their customers with the tantalizing aromas of sizzling Japanese food. We were hungry. It smelled great!
R: On the left wall is a large, lighted menu with inviting color photos of 10 of their specialties, each looking equally tempting. We usually ask the server for suggestions, since most are familiar with the restaurant's outstanding dishes. Jenny, whose family owns the café, definitely had the scoop and stood, pen in hand, smiling, and ready to take our order.
Z: She suggested the colorful Bento Combo Plate and asked if we would prefer Miso Soup or a beverage that comes with the entrée. Miso Soup was our reply in unison. Her next question was, "white or brown rice?" We always select the brown rice when given a choice.
R: Zel kept eyeing the Bibimbab attractively pictured on the menu and chose that for our second entree. I think she was intrigued with the name. We also requested a half-order of Gyoza for an appetizer. We then paid Jenny and sat down at one of the eight small tables in the cozy little dining area.
Z: Large windows and sparkling white walls make this little eatery a joyful place that serves a lively crowd of diners and tends to a steady stream of take-out customers. Jenny came shortly with our Miso Soup, a delicious broth with the distinct flavor of light miso and the traditional little bits of soft tofu floating about.
R: Our entrees and appetizer came quickly and were steaming hot. The half-order of Gyoza included four pieces of pan-fried dumplings filled with chopped cabbage and bits of carrots that we could enhance with two squirt bottles, one a spicy sweet and sour sauce, the other a sesame oil that Jenny brought to our table. The Gyoza were down-home finger lickin' tasty. However, anyone watching fat intake may want to choose an appetizer of Sushi or Kimchi instead.
Z: For the robust appetite, the Bento Combo Plate is a great choice with its mound of perfectly cooked Brown Rice in the center and a host of hearty additions encircling the rice. A generous serving of steamed broccoli, chopped cabbage, and shredded carrots occupied one section of the plate, while a mound of fried and breaded nuggets of Orange Chicken stood opposite. Other additions to the plate were Tempura sweet potatoes and string beans, slices of tasty, sauced V-Chicken Teriyaki, and two large sushi rolls, one the Avocado Cucumber Roll, the other the Vege Sushi Roll filled with carrots, spinach, and yellow radish.
R: Accompanying the Bento were two little saucers of Tempura Sauce for dipping and a mini saucer with thinly sliced pickled ginger and the typical dollop of wasabi, a Japanese horseradish that always goes hand-in-hand with sushi. The mystifying Bibimbab is a wholesome Korean dish of steamed fresh vegetables over rice served in a large bowl. We were encouraged to douse the contents with the spicy sweet and sour sauce and sesame oil.
Z: Vegetable enthusiasts could enjoy the ample selection of veggies that included mung bean sprouts, spinach, carrots, mushrooms, sliced zucchini, marinated shiitakes, and chunks of veggie chicken. The quantity was generous, the dish with the intriguing name simple and wholesome.
R: I think of our experience as an informal, enjoyable activity meal. Splashing on the zesty sauces and dipping the sushi and veggie analogs made this a fun dinner in a pleasant, clean and busy atmosphere.
Z: We learned that Jenny's family is Korean. They purchased the Japanese restaurant 14 months ago and simply added the word "Vegan" to the existing name of Tokyo Teriyaki. They kept the Japanese menu focus and added a few Korean dishes like Kimchi and the Bibimbab.
R: Flavoring the atmosphere is a slanted mock roof covered with a bamboo window shade, autumn leaves, and fake pumpkins. This structure hangs over the order counter that separates the kitchen from the dining area. Garlands of plastic ivy trail over the large window, adding a bit of greenery to the room. Defining their vegan philosophy, the owners display pamphlets from PeTA and Vegan Outreach on top of the refrigerated Coca Cola case.
Z: We couldn't help noticing a visible cultural transition taking place--while an elderly Japanese couple were eating with chop sticks, a table of college-age Japanese women opted for forks instead.
R: Other specialties of the café include Teriyaki dishes such as Salmon Fish Plate, Vege Chicken and Yakisoba, and Vege Tofu Plate. Diners can also order noodle dishes like Udon Soup, as well as salads, sushi, and side orders like Vege Spring Roll, Kimchi, or Tempura. Missing on the menu are sweets and desserts.
Z: Prices are very reasonable and diners will certainly find value for money. Though there is parking in the small strip mall, spaces are limited. Street parking may be the best bet during the busy dinner hour.
Vegan Tokyo Teriyaki
2518 South Figueroa St.
Los Angeles, CA 90007
Inexpensive
Reviewed July 2004
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