Vegetarians in Paradise

Vegetarian Restaurant Review

Hinterhof German Kitchen and Beer Garden Hinterhof German Kitchen and Beer Garden

Z: When we heard a new vegan restaurant was opening and specializing in German food, we wondered if veganizing German cuisine were even possible. Hinterhof German Kitchen and Beer Garden, made its splash in Highland Park in January 2019 and became an instant success with an awesome menu of traditional German dishes turned compassionately vegan!

R: We thought we would wait a few weeks before coming in for a taste to give the staff a chance to smooth out the wrinkles, typical of new restaurant openings. By the end of January, the vegan vibes were buzzing such superlative praises we could wait no longer and joined the Saturday night throng waiting on the large patio to be seated. We quickly discovered there were no wrinkles; the staff was well trained and the food memorably delicious.

Z: The patio was roomy and outfitted with sturdy wooden tables and chairs, gray brick flooring and walls, and plenty of lights hung from above, perfect for casual outdoor summer dining. There were a few outdoor diners enjoying the chilly air along with their hearty meals, but we were happy to wait for an inside table, in spite of the outdoor heaters.

Hinterhof German Kitchen and Beer Garden
R: Our wait was only 20 minutes, and we were seated along the left wall where banquettes lined both the left and right sides of the restaurant. Three long communal tables filled the center of the large room, making it easy to form instant friendships with welcoming neighbors. Floor to ceiling glass doors and windows across the front of the restaurant offered bright daytime lighting and gave us a clear view of the patio that seats about 40 people. Inside, the restaurant can accommodate an impressive 87 diners.

Z: The back of the room featured the bar with about a dozen taps dispensing glasses of the frothy beer that makes Germany so famous. The glass case at the end of the bar featured a mountain of giant German pretzels looking more alluring by the moment. We resisted and vowed those would be one of the choices for our next visit. The rear wall displayed three exterior windows giving the impression of an aged building with an exposed gray brick wall that appears to be crumbling.

Hinterhof German Kitchen and Beer Garden R: The word was out, and curious vegans came en masse for a taste of old world German cuisine. Traditionally a rather meaty genre served with a healthy dose of starchy accompaniments, German food is known for its copious, robust items like long, thick sausages, potato pancakes, sauerkraut, sweet and sour red cabbage, and spätzle, a dish akin to pasta but consisting of bite-size dumpling bits rather than long noodles.


Z: We began with a glass of Konig Ludwig Dunkel ale, a perfect beginning to an enjoyable evening of flavorful food and plenty of chatter with our friendly table mates on both sides. Reuben ordered the Bratwurst, a traditional sausage, actually the longest sausage we've ever seen! It must have been more than a foot long! The Brat is served with a giant fluff of well-seasoned mashed potatoes and a Daddy-size serving of sauerkraut, each tastefully garnished with finely minced parsley. Two tiny cups held the condiments--sweetened curry ketchup and a zesty Dijon-style mustard with a light spicy edge. The mustard is imported and comes directly from Germany. The finishing touch resting at the edge of the platter was a mini salad of lightly dressed butter lettuce, radish slices, and cherry tomatoes.

R: The first glance at my plate told me German mothers, much like Jewish mothers, like to see plump children and everyone eating hearty quantities. Zel's plate was equally filled with extra-generous servings. She chose the Jaegerschnitzel, consisting of two giant slabs of 1/2-inch-thick seitan steak, breaded and smothered under a rich, savory, killer-delicious mushroom sauce. A delicately seasoned sweet and sour red cabbage and creamy spätzle partnered perfectly with the schnitzel. I was surprised at the delicious light touch given to the red cabbage, remembering past experiences of red cabbage tasting much too sweet and vinegary. Our compliments to the chef.

Hinterhof German Kitchen and Beer Garden Z: Because Reuben and I like to share our meals, we found passing bits and pieces quite challenging trying to dodge the old-fashioned wrought-iron candlestick placed in the center of the table. We did love it, tough. It was one of those old-fashioned, short candleholders with a big handle that one might have seen in the old Western movies of the 30s and 40s. Each table had one of these candleholders with a short, white candle, and as evening stole away the room's light, the ample restaurant lighting gave the ambience a cozy warmth.

R: Though the restaurant is large and features a high ceiling with large, dark beams, a room with 87 vivacious diners can still get a bit noisy. The lively chatter left no doubt people were thoroughly enjoying their brats and brews and the friendly servers were also enjoying the positive feedback from the customers.

Z: Typically, most new restaurants experience a variety of mishaps in the beginning, and we were ready for a few hitches. Instead, we were impressed at how smoothly everything ran. From the short wait for our food and hot foods served pleasingly hot, to the terrific service of the well-trained servers, everything ran problem-free.

Hinterhof German Kitchen and Beer Garden Z: On our second visit, we came early on a Sunday evening a couple of months later with our family. Our January experience was such a joy we wanted to spread the word about the tasty eats Hinterhof prepares. This time we were at one of the community tables and the restaurant was only about half-full.

R: I sipped a glass of Kostritzer Schwartzbier that came in a cone-shaped mug with a handle and Zel tried a tall glass of Schonramer Altbayrisch Dunkel Lager while perusing the menu. Curious about the Potato Pancakes, we placed two orders. Each consisted of two giant-sized, golden pancakes perfect for sharing and dunking into the accompanying sour cream and applesauce. The pancakes contained no binders and were simply made with potatoes, onions, and seasonings, resulting in pleasingly plump pancakes with a delightful, creamy texture.

Z: On this family visit we had the opportunity to taste many more of the restaurant's specialties. The Currywurst, a popular dish in Germany, is a long, thin, 14- to 16-inch-long bratwurst sausage sitting in a crimson pool of spicy curry sauce. Typically served with the giant brat is a heaping mound of fresh cut fries. We found the curry sauce very tasty and not too spicy. It had a delicate sweetness and was perfect for dunking the fries.

Hinterhof German Kitchen and Beer Garden R: I was blown away by the exceptional flavors of the Kasespätzle, an eye-appealing dish that looked like a German version of mac n' cheese. Served in a white, oval casserole the dish was composed of spätzle blanketed in a creamy, ambrosial cashew cream sauce and topped with smokey tempeh and grilled onions. The well-conceived dish delivers a savory gem in every bite and is paired with a lovely, lightly dressed green salad of mixed lettuces, radish slices, cucumbers, red onion slices, and cherry tomatoes heaped into a large radicchio leaf.

Z: The Jaegerschnitzel, divinely cloaked in a mushroom gravy, was a hit on this visit, too, as were the spätzle and red cabbage served on the side. One of our kids requested sauerkraut and cucumber salad in place of the mashed potatoes. The restaurant was happy to please.

R: One of the items we ordered evolved from an interesting turn of history. Listed under Main Dishes, the menu included Bratlinge, which were vegetable-based patties created during World War II during a scarcity of meat in Germany. Naturally vegan and gluten-free, the plump, attractively formed veggie patties were composed of potatoes, carrots, quinoa, apple, leek, ginger, and sunflower seeds. Fried to a rich, reddish brown color and served alongside generous servings of mashed potatoes and sweet and sour red cabbage, they were a unique and tasty addition to the menu choices. A tiny cup of lively German mustard added the finishing touch for dipping bits of the Bratlinge.

Hinterhof German Kitchen and Beer Garden Z: While the servings are quite generous and we were all well sated, we couldn't pass up a little something sweet to conclude our meal. We opted for one piece each of cherry and apple strudels and were happy to share. The moment the apple strudel was placed on the table we knew it was extraordinary, oozing the compelling aroma of a unique variety of cinnamon. The flavor was just as magnetic and enticing. Our best advice: don't pass up this dessert! Flavorful, delicious, and sumptuous best describes the dishes on this exceptionally designed menu.

R: Service is consistently outstanding and attentive to details, reflecting excellent top-down management. Clearly the five years planning and developing all aspects of this restaurant endeavor have resulted in a restaurant that excels in food and service. Owners and chefs Matthias Brand and Eric Frank are an exceptional team, creating a dining hall and beer garden that brings Angelenos a little taste of Germany.

Z: Hinterhof is a bite-by-bite delightful experience. Bring friends to make the meal even more enjoyable and fun for sharing tidbits of this flavorful cuisine. Because servings are very generous, there will likely be leftovers. And they're just as delectable next day.

R: Prices are moderate with appetizers from $6 to $12. Main dishes range from $15 to $19. And there is even a kid's portion for both dinner and brunch. Desserts feature strudel, German cookies, puddings, and handmade ice cream from $5 to $11. Brunch, now being served on weekends, ranges from $11 to $20.

Hinterhof Beer Garden and German Kitchen
4939 York Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90042
Phone: 323-739-0209
Hours: Nightly 5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.
Brunch: Saturdays and Sundays 8:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.
Website: https://hinterhofla.com
e-mail: info@hinterhofla.com

Reviewed June 2019



Click here for past Dining in Paradise reviews

Vegetarians in Paradise